Calcutta - ""The rumors of my demise have been greatly exaggerated . . ."
. . . to steal a quote from Mr. Mark Twain.
I have arrived in Calcutta (Kolkuta, if you prefer) whole, sound and full of stories and pictures from the journey down the Ganga! You will have to wait a few days, however, as I need to develop the pictures and transcribe my journal.
I am merely writing to reassure you, my faithful readers (which I am convinced is just three people and a small pet dog in Kansas with broadband access), that I have not been taken by dacoits, eaten by a Gangetic dolphin or wiped out in the tsunami that hit the east coast of India as a result of the 8.9 magnitude earthquake in Indonesia that occured on the 26th of December (Calcutta Telegraph news article, the one I read to find out here). The tides were affected by the earthquake, however, and by that time we were on the Hooghly River (Hughli, if you like), about 100 kilometers from Calcutta, which sees the tidal fluctuations. The effects of the quake were noted by our boatmen at about 6.30 in the morning here, who said that the water developed strong waves as if a large boat was passing, "but none was there!" We also faced a strong incoming tide effect as we tried to go down-river that day during a time when the tide was supposed to be with us, so much in fact that if the boatmen stopped rowing, the boat was pushed backwards.
"The Hooghly River?," you say (go on, say it), "But you were supposed to be on the Ganges River!?" Well, for that clarification you will have to wait a few days, but, just so you can sleep easy and not bite your nails to the nub in anticipation, the Hooghly River, which passes right through Calcutta and into the ocean (Calcutta is an ocean-side town, so you know) is essentially now a branch of the Ganges, courtesy of the Farakka Barrage (read: a damn dam). This structure, located about 400 kilometers north of Calcutta and about 20 kilometers from the Bangladeshi border, diverts water south along an extensive constructed canal until it reaches the Bhagirathi River, which is what the Hooghly is called at this point. When the effects of the tide are felt by the river and salinity increases, it is then called the Hooghly.
The Farakka Barrage is a highly contested topic, blamed for a myriad of problems downstream in Bangladesh, accused of creating accelerated meandering of the Ganges upstream that has destroyed many villages and displaced thousands, pointed at as a waste of money, since silt is building up behind it at an incredible rate, rendering the waterways near and through it un-naviagable by large craft, and disliked by scientists who note the ecosystem changes and physical barrier to acquatic populations it has created. We explored these issues in our travels, stopping at many villages destroyed by the meanders, talking to government officials who defend the dam, activists who decry it, and scientists who discourse about it.
All of it was recorded by Julian Crandall-Hollick, the radio journalist who funded this trip for his documentary, and some day you will hear it all on NPR or BBC. Hopefully without my voice in it, but I'm afraid I managed to get on tape several times when I pretended to be a geomorphologist and offer some clarification on river dynamics and the like. I'm a paleomagnetist, for Shiva's sake! (And one long-absent from his post, some readers might comment)
So, 806 river kilometers logged, one traveler deposited in Calcutta, and a planned stay of at least two weeks to explore this incredible city, called the "intellectual hub" of India and other silly titles. It really is a center for intelligensia, though, with many Nobel Laureates, poets, painters and prominent politicians coming from here. And, say Indians, the best museums and galleries in India! I could use some marble hallway time.
More tales to follow in a few days, with pictures for the verbally challenged!
I have arrived in Calcutta (Kolkuta, if you prefer) whole, sound and full of stories and pictures from the journey down the Ganga! You will have to wait a few days, however, as I need to develop the pictures and transcribe my journal.
I am merely writing to reassure you, my faithful readers (which I am convinced is just three people and a small pet dog in Kansas with broadband access), that I have not been taken by dacoits, eaten by a Gangetic dolphin or wiped out in the tsunami that hit the east coast of India as a result of the 8.9 magnitude earthquake in Indonesia that occured on the 26th of December (Calcutta Telegraph news article, the one I read to find out here). The tides were affected by the earthquake, however, and by that time we were on the Hooghly River (Hughli, if you like), about 100 kilometers from Calcutta, which sees the tidal fluctuations. The effects of the quake were noted by our boatmen at about 6.30 in the morning here, who said that the water developed strong waves as if a large boat was passing, "but none was there!" We also faced a strong incoming tide effect as we tried to go down-river that day during a time when the tide was supposed to be with us, so much in fact that if the boatmen stopped rowing, the boat was pushed backwards.
"The Hooghly River?," you say (go on, say it), "But you were supposed to be on the Ganges River!?" Well, for that clarification you will have to wait a few days, but, just so you can sleep easy and not bite your nails to the nub in anticipation, the Hooghly River, which passes right through Calcutta and into the ocean (Calcutta is an ocean-side town, so you know) is essentially now a branch of the Ganges, courtesy of the Farakka Barrage (read: a damn dam). This structure, located about 400 kilometers north of Calcutta and about 20 kilometers from the Bangladeshi border, diverts water south along an extensive constructed canal until it reaches the Bhagirathi River, which is what the Hooghly is called at this point. When the effects of the tide are felt by the river and salinity increases, it is then called the Hooghly.
The Farakka Barrage is a highly contested topic, blamed for a myriad of problems downstream in Bangladesh, accused of creating accelerated meandering of the Ganges upstream that has destroyed many villages and displaced thousands, pointed at as a waste of money, since silt is building up behind it at an incredible rate, rendering the waterways near and through it un-naviagable by large craft, and disliked by scientists who note the ecosystem changes and physical barrier to acquatic populations it has created. We explored these issues in our travels, stopping at many villages destroyed by the meanders, talking to government officials who defend the dam, activists who decry it, and scientists who discourse about it.
All of it was recorded by Julian Crandall-Hollick, the radio journalist who funded this trip for his documentary, and some day you will hear it all on NPR or BBC. Hopefully without my voice in it, but I'm afraid I managed to get on tape several times when I pretended to be a geomorphologist and offer some clarification on river dynamics and the like. I'm a paleomagnetist, for Shiva's sake! (And one long-absent from his post, some readers might comment)
So, 806 river kilometers logged, one traveler deposited in Calcutta, and a planned stay of at least two weeks to explore this incredible city, called the "intellectual hub" of India and other silly titles. It really is a center for intelligensia, though, with many Nobel Laureates, poets, painters and prominent politicians coming from here. And, say Indians, the best museums and galleries in India! I could use some marble hallway time.
More tales to follow in a few days, with pictures for the verbally challenged!
posted by JAshby at 6:06 AM
2 Comments:
James - Besides us 'regulars' that you know of, your cousin Jennifer(Mednis)Berkley, emailed earlier today, regarding your safety in India. I therefore speculate that there are indeed a great number of animals, some related to you, that bark with pleasure at your travels and well being !
Sitting in 10" of snow in VA - Dad 12/27/04
This Canadian is still reading, and is relieved to hear you are alright. Hope Christmas was as merry as it can be away from home, and all the best in the new year!
Post a Comment
<< Home