Kathmandu Forecast: Cold, Slight Chance of Rain, Slight Chance of Leaving

Arrived in Kathmandu two days ago to cold, persistent rain. It cleared by yesterday, but for my first afternoon and evening back, it served to dampen the enthusiasm of rickshaw drivers, hash peddlers and other roadside merchants here in the Thamel. The rain has stopped, but it is still quite brisk, which feels nice after the damp heat of India.

Varanasi is thus far the gem of India's cities in my mind. I flew from there to Kathmandu after a few days of resting, arranging a ticket and taking in the city. I am still in peaceful awe of the ghats and the wide sweep of water that you are presented with as you walk the shores of the Ganga river.

Picture walking north along the ghats, Ganga river to the right.

Response to my initial inquiries about ticket changes from Kathmandu were grim at first. It was suggested I wait until the beginning of February. Further pleading resulted in a tentative itinerary that leaves Monday, January 24th for Bangkok, an overnight there (20 hours, really), then onto Hong Kong. After HKK, this puts me back into L.A. at around eight o-clock at night, January 25th. March myself over to the Southwest Airlines ticket counter, present that travel voucher I scored on my flight out of Albuquerque last year and then probably be denied any immediate seat. Sleep in a chair until dawn. Wake up, board airplane. That should put me back in Albuquerque on the 26th, looking and feeling like I was run over by an ox-cart.

This is all tentative, you realize, though. I could go to the office today and find that I will be merrily studying Sanskrit until April or somesuch. We will hope not.

On another topic, there is a pleasant, mediatative circularity in returning to places that I initially began my travels in. On first arrival to Kathmandu (and Varanasi, as well), I was that guy with the multiple hidden money wallets, the one you saw wrestling with his belt every time he wanted to buy dinner. I was the guy who wouldn't brush my teeth with the tap water. I was the guy who wouldn't eat the wonderful country yoghurt or touch the vegetables. I was convinced that every negotiation in a shop was specifically designed to part me from as much of my money as possible. I had no clue how to deal with beggars or every person standing outside their shop who said "Hello! Yes?," and every 10 meters was drawn into conversations engendered to sell me something or beg money.

I in no way claim to be the all-mighty, savvy world travel now. Not at all. But, I enjoy the perspective and how much I have changed and how much more at ease I am with shifting cities, negotiating with people who speak very bad or no English and in general just feeling more comfortable with myself in a foreign environment.

All right, let's all gather round for a group hug, now . . .

Just kidding. I think that's enough of the reflective travel philosophy stuff for now.

Time to focus on something else, which is bringing you all PICTURES! Yes, I have developed and scanned many a roll since my arrival back in Kathmandu, and will be posting those savory little kumquats very soon. Many of them will be interspersed between text (like the one b&w above), and I will also be making some additions and changes to the overall website. Exact details will be forthcoming later in a separate, "Web Site News" post.